Texas-Rigged Worms For Consistent Bites

In case you haven't noticed, the old-fashioned Texas-rigged worm is making a comeback. That doesn't mean it ever lost its place in my tackle box. I've been catching fish on traditional worms for three decades, and they still produce more than 50 percent of the fish I catch. It's a bait that will trick fish time and again while other lures fall out of favor.

My pond, where bass wise up quickly to just about any frequently used lure, is a perfect example. The Texas-rigged worm is one of the few exceptions, as I continue to catch the same bass that I caught five years ago on those lures.

Basically, a Texas-rigged worm is a plastic worm in which the hook is threaded into and out the nose, turned and then re-inserted into the body so the plastic protects the barb from catching on snags.

When using line sizes of 12 pound or smaller, I'll push the hook through the worm body so that the barb lies on top of the worm, then bury the point just under the plastic. This "skin-hooking" method is good when you can't exert a lot of pressure, such as when using light line or making long casts.

A sliding sinker is best, but it can be pegged to the head of the worm to cause it to fall directly into cover. I generally prefer the sinker sliding because I don't miss or lose as many fish.

When selecting shapes, I've found the basic plastic worm that worked decades ago still works today. Although we've seen improvements in lure colors, texture and attractant additives, the designs from yesteryear remain just as deadly.

I'm partial to worms with bulky bodies and fat, action-packed tails. These styles produce a bigger silhouette for pitching into heavy cover or fishing stained water. Now, if I'm fishing clear water or finessing deep bass, a worm with a smaller profile can be better.

Red shad or dark colors are my favorites for fishing stained water or during dark days. In clear water or bright days, I use natural, translucent colors, with greenish versions topping the list.

Sinker size can be a factor in how many strikes you get. A heavier sinker allows the bait to penetrate cover and get to the bottom quicker, whereas a smaller sinker may work best in clearer water or when fish are suspended under docks.

Hook size is dictated by water clarity and line size. In clear water, an ultra-sharp, streamlined hook is less obtrusive than a big, bulky version that requires more hook-setting force. But when flipping cover or fishing stained water, the larger hook and line combination gives you more assurance of hooking and landing big fish.

Rod selection is equally critical. Many anglers use rods that are too limber and miss or lose fish because they don't hook fish properly. I prefer medium-heavy or heavy rods, although you can get by with a softer rod if you're fishing a superline that has little or no stretch.

Monofilament stretch is a big consideration and why you shouldn't make long casts with a Texas-rigged worm. I rarely fish it more than 30 to 40 feet away from the boat or bank when using mono because of the power required to hook fish effectively.

When you do set the hook, consider a snap hookset that involves dropping the rod tip rapidly and snapping it upward, like cracking a whip. This generates more power than a hard jerk.

If you've not made the Texas-rigged worm a staple in your arsenal, you're making a mistake. It's a universal lure presentation and technique that produces bass throughout the fishing season.

BASSIN' Magazine March 2003